Tuesday, October 4, 2011

London Fashion Week S/S 2012 ♥

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Acne
Acne designer Jonny Johansson gave us a modern twist on minimal dressing for next spring with with solid accents of vivid lavender, flamingo pink, electric blue and leaf green as well as warm ochre, rust and a tropical orange. I have fallen in love with the Loafers and sandals with oversized tassels especially the metallic blue. Also the laser-cut stars and sparkly plastic inserts brought a quirky vibe to the whole collection.

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Ann-Sofie Back Atelje
With her latest Atelje collection, Back took an interesting tack on that, exploring the Scandinavian concept of jantelagen, which defines a whole set of cultural values around the suppression of individuality.

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Antonio Berardi
For Spring Antonio Berardi's obsessions ran to armour and menswear tailoring with shaped patent panels and sharp elevated shoulders on sleeveless dresses, but there was also soft element in his beautifully beaded and embellished chiffon gowns with their asymmetric hemlines revealing matching embellished leggings, as well as flowing devoré and sequin trapeze dresses.

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Burberry Prorsum
Ruched dresses and skirts a Bailey signature, arrived in stunning ethnic prints, which when wrapped and gathered around the body, brought to mind the brightly coloured costumes of Ghanaian women.
Christopher Bailey took a holiday that not only gave rise to ethnic prints in spice tones and primitive craft details, but also a holiday from the strict military heritage that has been at the heart of the recent reinvigoration of the Burberry brand. Of course there were revisited signatures, ruched dresses and lean trench coats aplenty, but this foreign holiday provided welcome respite from the now familiar archival reworkings of Bailey’s Burberry tenure.

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Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane
presented one of the highlight shows of the day. Working simple 60s-inspired silhouettes in a medley of decorative fabrics, delicate embellishments and vivid prints, all with intricate details and angular architectural cutting.

An icy palette of palest shell, lemon, mint and pearl, notched up to a vivid turquoise

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David Koma
The body-con dress is a staple in Koma’s repertoire and for next summer it arrived with peplums, panniers and pockets decorated with mirrored shard appliqué that glinted under the show lights or long strips of leather fringe.
Tribal geometric patterns on sexy body-conscious shaping.

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Felder Felder
the Felder sisters turned to the slightly less-than-inspired idea of hardware in sharp gold studs and rows of long bugle beads that suggested armor or artillery.
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Marios Schwab
Entitled Chiaroscuro .. meaning the interplay between light and dark. Marios Schwab explored the theme via layered sheers, panels of mesh and a game of conceal-and-reveal colour.
A stunning collection of shaped and panelled seams, sheer overlays, nipped waists, and corsetry.

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Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou relies heavily on shifts and sheath dresses as canvases for her prints. For summer 2012 they arrived with cutaway shoulders, asymmetric necklines and pleated chiffon trains. Inspired by the juxtaposition of industrial and natural themes, digital prints included busy meadow florals used en masse, underwater scenes, smoky marbling and technicolour swirls.

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Meadham Kirchoff
Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff showed a happy array of pleated pinafores, mini-kilts, cropped knits with appliqué and embroidered cutesy cartoon characters, cutwork trims, heart-shaped pockets and lots of ruffles.

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Richard Nicoll
Layered columns and swingy trapeze lines filled Richard Nicoll's 60's inspired spring show. With details of wired circular hems, layered lengths, corsetry and lingerie details as well as spaghetti straps, lettuce frills, horizontal pin-tucking and cape sleeves on a pallet of cornflower blue, powder pink, mint, peach and pale dove grey with silver and black


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Topshop Unique
Oversized hoodies and knitted jackets were foil printed, along with jog pants, full dirndl skirts and track tops. Elsewhere there was a play on conceal and reveal, with sheer backs on parkas, sheer sleeves on a leather jacket and mesh panels splicing jersey pieces, with laser-cut white denim added into the mix. The collection was a full-on print fest from the graffiti-like gold foil hieroglyphics worked as borders or all-overs, to snake motifs, scarab-beetle imagery, photoreal sacred cats and foil-print sand flies.
Cleopatra meets Hip-hop.

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