Tuesday, September 27, 2011

New York Fashion Week S/S 2012 ♥


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Kimberly Ovitz
Kimberly Ovitz showed raw minimalism for her s/s 2012 collection, inspired by the work of Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, Ovitz dealt with the idea of deconstruction and construction. She wanted to use as many natural materials as possible, so her fabrics are made up of Japanese paper and cotton contrasted with natural synthetics, silk, jersey and muslin. I really liked the erosion print in rust orange and black which represented decaying surfaces.

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Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs brought back the 1920's silhouette of the tiered-fringe flapper dress with a new futuristic twist of cellophane organza and techno plastics. There were clusters of paillettes, scrunched, gathered and folded detailing, contrast pockets, sporty colour-blocked sweatshirts and zip-through track tops, and flattering dropped waists.

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Narciso Rodriguez
Narciso Rodriguez presented us with a slouched minimalism for his s/s 12 collection with Draped knee-length skirts, slim pants and strappy backless tanks. Rodriguez’s minimal aesthetic was reinterpreted this season with simple, asymmetric blocking and pattern, along with brushed stripes. The collection was clever and intricate, with exact cutwork and perfectly simple lines.

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Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler's collection was full of sophisticated hawaiian botanicals, stylised tiger stripes and croc scales. The crochet raffia dresses with flared skirts and cutaway bodices won my heart, not to mention the colourful series of snug-fitting forties-shaped dresses.

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Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung had a silhouette that was light and ethereal yet sharp and tailored. Gurung had a specially commissioned floral print produced and used it as engineered placements morphing round body contours or as diffused abstract patterns. From painted latex to feathery fronds the collection was sharp and strong yet soft and feminine.
LOVE LOVE LOVE

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Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone brought sportswear to a rave with voluminous layers of bra tops, brightly coloured ponchos, marled mesh tanks, silky ruched pants and a medley of overdyed prints worked into languid patchworked dresses perfect for warm summer nights.

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Rodarte
Sleeping Beauty met Vincent van Gogh at Rodarte's s/s12 collection, mostly waisted with off-shoulder necklines and full skirts there was literal interpretation of Van Gogh’s Sunflower and Starry Night paintings as well as floaty sheers in soft bias layers for hi-lo hem dresses.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy explained that they fell for the greens and purples of the 1959 animated Disney classic sleeping beauty.

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The Row
Elongated tunic shapes ran throughout The Row s/s12 collection.
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen showed A non-colour palette of bone white and eggshell-pale blush and mint with Wafting sheers, limpid satins and silks, silk crochet. Their inspirations were a Seattle exhibition of Nick Cave's Soundsuits and the country of Tibet. "We wanted everything to float and breathe, or make a sound even," Mary-Kate explained.

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Y-3
Voluminous shirt dresses contrasted with simple tunic shapes at Y-3 s/s12 collection. Yohji Yamamoto and recently installed creative director Dirk Schönberger looked to youth culture for their cues this season. There was a masculine-feminine feel at play in the sleeveless tailored jackets with their tulle ruffles and tiered crinoline skirts.

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